Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
